May 26th to 27th - Murghab to Khorugh
10AM ready for another freezing day with a 4000 meters riding altitude. We know today and the following days are going to be difficult but we have no choice, once you are on the PAMIR, the only way is straight…Probably the most difficult days since the beginning. Our enemies are the temperature and the altitude. These 2 parameters are involving a lot on bikes engine, speed, comfort and our mood. To be honest, we did not much enjoy those riding days. Too extreme and bikes are not doing well at all. I mean the Kawasaki is doing alright but the Benelli and the fuel pipe problems are getting worst. The fuel pipe did not last and even worst, the 2 others broke today…
Because we will have to adjust the pipe and fix it often, we decided to take of all the body part of the Benelli to allow a faster and easier access to the fuel tank and the pipes (Mode Mad Max on). One positive things, luck is still with us, today on the Pamir on the worst rocky roads ever when the pipes broke, we crossed a Chinese truck and ask him for help. The driver kindly gave us some tapes. Better than nothing, hopefully hopefully it will run until tonight village.
At Murghab this morning, we decided to ship our top boxes to Dushanbe in the order to make our bikes lighter and avoid their destruction on the Pamir. We still have a long way until France, so lets be sweet with them.
It helps, bikes are easier to ride and absorb better shocks.
On the 26th, we had a similar day, snow, rain, cold and fuel pipe issue, no need to tell more, its was a crappy day. We drive hours and hours and cannot found any guest house. The closest one was in Korugh, our tomorrow destination 60km away but Nico and myself had enough of today and we kindly ask for hospitality to locals. Bingooo ! We found the coolest guy and after a good diner, we slept like babies.
Today, 27th we are looking forward to reach Khorugh which is half way of the Pamir. Only 60Km to do today but at the exit of the village (5min after our departure), fuel pipe again and in addition Nicolas noticed the missing screw from the back support of the Benelli ( the problem i had few days ago). It broke again. Unfortunately, i shipped most of my spare parts and tools to Dushanbe with the top boxes, so nothing left in our luggage.
We found a screw in the village and make it works for today.
We reached Khorugh beginning of the afternoon, found an hotel and went straight to buy some pipes, screws and all things needed for the Benelli. Shopping done, we went back to hotel and try to adapt it on the original system.
The way is still long until Dushanbe and Khorugh is our last chance to fix the bike.
Our second option, will be to find a truck and ship our bikes to Dushanbe directly. We heard the road is even worst than the 1st half part we did. Lets see tomorrow.
Even if we suffer riding on the Pamir with bikes not adapted, the landscape, view and encounter we are facing on this road is a unique experience and we try to take as more as we can.
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